Le grand nord et le passage du Nord-Ouest

Le grand nord

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Comme chacun sait, la terre est plate, et le Groenland est un truc très loin de tout, en haut.

En fait, l’arctic est le centre du monde.

On imagine facilement l’Arctique et l’Antarctique, comme des déserts de glace. Mais entre le cercle polaire (70°nord) et le pôle, il existe une vie riche et très particulière Le nord du Canada, le Groenland et le nord de la Sibérie sont habités par des populations Inuit. Elles y ont développé des modes de vie très spécifiques pour s’adapter à des conditions extrêmes et changeantes. Car aussi inconcevable que cela puisse nous paraître du fond de nos canapés moelleux, il s’agit bien de vie, et non de survie.

Depuis les témoignages de Jean Malaurie sur les effets de l’invasion militaire américaine de 1951 sur les Inuits, puis celles de l’exploitation minière et pétrolière ou encore des accidents nucléaires, on sait que les habitants du grand nord sont passés par pertes et profits du capitalisme, dommage collatéral de plus d’un système économique fondé sur le profit de quelques-uns, aveugles à ce qui ne leur est pas semblable ou directement utile.

« L’occident a éminemment besoin de se placer au service de la sagesse des peuples premiers, qui, par élection, sont les sentinelles de la planète. De part le tragique destin qu’ils vivent, ils sont révélateurs de notre incapacité, à nous, détenteurs d’une civilisation qui se croit supérieure – à bout de souffle sur le plan idéologique et de ses valeurs – à gérer la planète. »

Jean Malaurie, 2000

Le coup de chaud

Les cartes saisonnières des glaces mettent en évidence la fonte des glaces : les saisons estivales sont de plus en plus longues et libèrent des surfaces d’eau libres de plus en plus importantes.

Comparaison de l’extension de la banquise arctique (en rose) entre l’été 1980 et l’été 2012 (où la glace à particulièrement fondue).

Ce ne sont pas seulement les glaces annuelles qui subissent le réchauffement. Les cartes satellites et les mesures sur le terrain mettent aussi en évidence un déplacement et une diminution dramatique des glaces anciennes de la banquise !

Évolution de la banquise entre 1972 et 2012 (vidéo)

Une représentation animée de la fonte des glaces anciennes du pôle nord.

Le passage du nord-ouest

Pour relier l’Atlantique et le Pacifique sans faire le tour du globe, les routes maritimes ne sont pas nombreuses : le cap Horn au sud, difficilement navigable du fait des conditions météorologiques qui y règnent, et le nord gelé. Il a fallu ouvrir en 1914 le gigantesque canal de Panama par les États-Unis au prix de la vie de dizaines de milliers d’ouvriers antillais pour permettre aux navires de commerce de passer d’un océan à l’autre.

Le « passage du Nord-Ouest », long d’environ 1 500 km, relie l’Atlantique et le Pacifique par le grand nord canadien. Une multitude de chenaux serpentent entre les îles et les glaces, depuis la mer de Baffin, bordant la côte ouest du Groenland, jusqu’au détroit de Bering entre l’Alaska et la Russie. Ce passage, gelé plus de 10 mois de l’année, n’est praticable que durant la courte saison estivale.

En 1490, Jean Cabot émet l’hypothèse d’un passage vers l’Orient par cette voie. Durant trois cents ans, plusieurs explorateurs vont chercher ce passage au prix de pertes humaines et de naufrages. Le Norvégien Roald Amundsen (une vidéo aux images magnifiques) fut le premier à franchir le passage entre 1903 et 1906. Il leur a fallu 3 ans, à son équipage de 5 hommes et à lui, avec deux hivernages de 10 mois ensevelis sous les glaces !

Amundsen et son bateau, Gjoa.

Hivernage de Gjoa dans les glaces du passage du nord ouest

En 1977 le Belge Willy de Roos, sur son côtre  en acier de 13m, Williwaw, ne fut que le second à franchir le passage à la voile ! En solitaire sur la moitié du trajet, il réalisa la prouesse de traverser en une seule saison estivale !

http://www.er.uqam.ca/nobel/k27454/BernierII/baffin/williwaw_banquise2.jpg

Williwaw cherchant son chemin ans les glaces.

Depuis, les voiliers sont de plus en plus nombreux chaque année à réussir le passage. Près de 200 l’ont franchi depuis 1977. Cette  fréquentation n’est pas uniquement due à la multiplication du nombre de voiliers de plaisance et des rêves d’occidentaux en mal d’exotisme, mais aussi au recul des glaces qui rend le passage plus aisé.

Les passages du nord-ouest et du nord-est.

Avec le réchauffement climatique, le passage du nord-ouest devient un enjeu commercial de taille pour le trafic maritime. La guerre à déjà commencé entre les Canadiens qui s’en estiment propriétaires légitimes, les Etats-Unis qui aspirent à tous les droits, les Chinois qui ont déjà forcé la voie à plusieurs reprise pour faire acte d’un droit de passage… Mais l’exploitation espérée  ne sera peut-être pas aisé : en fondant, les glaces soulagent les terres qui remontent et libèrent des eaux peu profondes qui s’agitent et rendent la navigation problématique au milieu des glaçons et des récifs.

Un projet de voyage

Ce grand nord et le passage du nord-ouest nous ont tous les deux fait rêver, comme le font les grands mythes. L’actualité climatique aidant, le mythe nous est peu à peu apparu accessible.

Nous avons envie de voir ces paysages, cette faune, et rencontrer ces cultures. Cette envie est sans doute égoïste, car de ce monde, il ne restera peut-être bientôt plus rien, et nous ne pourrons sans doute pas en ralentir la destruction. Comprendre un peu cette extraordinaire économie du don qui a permis aux Inuit de vivre ici durant des centaines d’années, envisager la façon dont elle pourrait nous aider à dépasser le triste l’horizon de notre civilisation occidentale, ramener quelques images et souvenirs de la faune et des paysages, sans doute est-ce tout ce que nous pouvons espérer faire.

Carte des glaces du 20 aout 2012, année particulièrement chaude

Quelques expériences récentes de traversées à la voile du passage du nord-ouest :

 

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